Gold Alloys Explained: The Chemistry Behind Yellow, Rose and White Gold

Yellow, rose and white gold are all real gold. What changes the color is the other metals mixed into the alloy: silver and copper keep gold warm and yellow, a higher share of copper turns it rose, and white metals such as palladium bleach it toward white. The karat tells you how much pure gold is in the mix. Here is the chemistry, simply, for anyone choosing a piece in Beverly Hills or anywhere else.

Why isn't fine jewelry made of pure gold?

Pure 24 karat gold is beautifully colored but very soft, about 2.5 to 3 on the Mohs hardness scale. A ring in pure gold would bend and scratch quickly. Jewelers solve this by alloying: melting gold together with other metals so the atoms of different sizes lock into a stronger structure.

• 18K means 18 parts gold out of 24, so 75% gold.
• 14K means 14 parts out of 24, about 58.5% gold.

The remaining 25% or 41.5% is where color is decided.

What makes yellow gold yellow?

Yellow gold balances silver and copper. Silver pulls the color slightly green and lighter, copper pulls it warmer and redder, and together they keep gold's natural sunny tone while adding strength. The higher the karat, the deeper the yellow, which is why 18K looks richer than 14K.

Why is rose gold pink?

Rose gold simply uses more copper. Copper has its own reddish color, and in a higher proportion it blushes the whole alloy pink. Rose gold also tends to be slightly harder than yellow gold of the same karat, because copper strengthens the alloy.

How is gold made white?

Gold is naturally yellow, so white gold needs metals that neutralize that color. Palladium is a common choice, and nickel has been used too, although many people with sensitive skin prefer to avoid it. Most white gold is then plated with rhodium, a bright white metal from the platinum family, which gives the mirror white finish. Over years the rhodium can wear and be renewed by a jeweler.

Which gold color should you choose?

• Look at what you already wear. If your everyday pieces are warm, stay with yellow.
• Rose gold flatters most skin tones and is a lovely gift choice when you are unsure.
• White gold sits naturally next to silver watches and lets diamonds look icy.

Some designs are offered in all three. The Celestial Raw Ring can be made in 18K white, yellow or rose gold, or platinum, with earth mined conflict free diamonds. The Stellar Diamond Bangle is offered in the same choice of 18K colors or platinum.

Margaret Krinetz Fine Jewelry, handmade in Tel Aviv and shipped to Beverly Hills, makes each piece to order in the metal you choose. For karat in depth, read 14K vs 18K gold.

Frequently asked questions

Is white gold real gold?

Yes. 18K white gold contains 75% pure gold, the same as 18K yellow.

Does rose gold fade?

No. Its color comes from the alloy itself, not a coating.

How long does delivery to Beverly Hills take?

Every piece is made to order in 4 to 6 weeks and ships with DHL Express in 3 to 5 business days. Shipping is free on orders over $1,500.

Not sure which color is yours? Write to me with a photo of what you wear most.